中外服饰文化论文

上海时装周的重头戏之一，《锦绣文章·华服霓裳——中国服饰文化展演活动》将于10月24日——31日在上海世贸商城举行。为此，中国服装网专门采访了上海艺术研究所高春明所长，提前为广大读者一展这一场华服盛宴的盛世辉煌。　　《锦绣文章·华服霓裳——中国服饰文化展演活动》是上海近20年来规格最高的服饰展演，活动展出的展品包括60件（套）中国历代服饰出土实物、复制品和数十套传世首饰、佩饰、鞋履以及大型服饰的展示图照。高春明所长表示：“这次展示的历代服饰出土实物都是上海艺术研究所数十年来从全国各地第一时间出土的珍贵文物，因为织物的保存十分困难，所以可以出此次展品均“价值连城”。”　　此外，高春明所长还表示，此次活动展出的一些古代服饰虽然是复制品，但依然十分珍贵。高所长向记者指出其中一件明代皇后百子服，在出土时已经碳化成残片，后来高所长在主持复原的过程中，在服装上用27种针法绣出一百个儿童形象，整件衣服由八位刺绣工艺师用八年时间刺绣完成。此次中国服饰文化大型展演活动除静态展示、蜡像展示历代服饰外，还邀请到著名华服设计师一慧，上演一场名为《锦绣文章·华服霓裳》的服装秀，服装将结合历代传统织物文样和时尚面料，为观众精彩演绎中国服饰文化的发展历程。活动还将邀请众多专家学者举办一次古代服饰文化论坛，作为国内著名的服饰史学家高春明老师将在论坛上作《锦绣文章》的学术报告，详尽介绍中国服饰文化研究的近况及学术成果。高所长向记者表示，希望可以借这次论坛研讨的机会集合更多的力量为中国古代服饰文化的研究做出贡献。　　目前，高所长正在为此次中国服饰文化展演活动忙碌着，以达到最好的展出效果。高所长表示，希望可以通过这样一个活动，让观众了解每件服饰展品的意义和典故，让更多的人真正的了解中国古代的服饰文化。(

<原创]本人的服装史论文寓意，形体可以兼得 ——关于在创作实践中如何吸收中外服装史的经验启示的论文从伏羲氏化蚕丝为穗帛，古埃及人利用亚麻织物制作围裙以及苏美尔人采用羊毛织物包缠在人体上，形成服装开始，似乎就暗示了中西方服装的发展历程，风貌形态将会有着千差万别的不同。 中西服装文化之间的内涵有很大的差别，中国服装文化是一种单源性的文化，在其形成过程中，与中国的巫觋和礼乐文化有密切的联系，注重形的内涵，具有浓厚的社会政治伦理倾向。在其发展进程中，因袭、守旧，继承性与连续性远大于变异性与创新性。西方服装文化是一种多源性的文化，在其形成过程中，将服装视作一门特殊的人体艺术，注重形式，认为形式即内容。在其发展过程中，时代特征明显，风格变化昭然。变异与创新性远大于继承与连续性。 以中国为代表的东方服装文化深受传统东方文化的影响。强调线形和纹饰的抽象寓意表达，透露出一种含蓄美。林语堂先生曾有深切的领悟，他说：“中装与西装在哲学上的不同之点就是，后者已在显出人体的线形，而前者在意遮隐之。”这使得中装与西装的直观静态之美产生了根本上的差别。追本溯源，西洋服装从诞生之日起就冲满了激进的思想与吸收外来文化的大度，所以说西方服装文化是一种多源性的文化。它的文化源于古希腊，古罗马文化，受当时的绘画，雕塑等造型艺术的影响至深，其审美视觉历来重视立体的造型。在西方的服装史上，13世纪初期就已确立了立体三维的裁剪方法。而三维裁剪的发明和运用成为了东西方服装的分水岭，从此，西方服装变得立体，外形变得富于变化，同时尽可能得让造型体现体形美。而以中国为代表的东方文化以含蓄为美，以朦胧隐约，藏而不露给人委婉含蓄的审美感受，通过款式，布局，色彩，线条给人整体的和谐之美，大量采用刺绣，飘带，图案和其他的装饰手法，表达丰富的寓意与想象。可以说中国人对服饰重装饰之美，讲究与环境和谐；西方人对服装造型之美，讲究与环境对比。东方服饰重“意”，西方服饰重“形”；东方表达含蓄，西方表达鲜明。东西方服饰完全是两种不同文化的反映，因而服饰文化特色的风格形成与民族风俗，历史文化的渊源有着紧密地联系。可见服装是一种文化，中西服装文化由于发生的地理环境、气候条件不同，在发展的过程中历史积淀的内容不同，中西服装文化之间的内涵有着很大的差别。但在服装发展历史的漫漫长河中，我们时不时地会看到东西方服装风格的融合，而这种融合往往会绽放出一种夺目的光芒，乃至影响到整个社会。时至今日，东西方服装风格融合的实例仍屡见不鲜。 “丝绸之路”的开辟使得来自遥远东方中国的精美丝绸传入了古罗马，这让古罗马的贵族爱不释手，贵妇们更是不惜花费昂贵的价格来达到自己追求时尚的目的。欧洲中世纪的拜占庭式服装，继承和发扬了古希腊，古罗马的文明和艺术风格，同时糅合了东方精美华丽的刺绣图案，以丝绸为贵，为尚。中国的陶瓷和园林艺术深深影响了18世纪欧洲的艺术风格——洛可可。那玲珑剔透，华丽雕琢的瓷器和园林建筑迎合了法国宫廷的审美情趣，被吸收融会于法国的艺术乃至欧洲的艺术中。尤其是中国陶瓷上的精描绘画，镶金嵌银，极尽曲线绕转之美的装饰，直接影响了洛可可艺术风格。这种风格不仅体现服装上，还体现在了建筑，绘画等艺术门类上。 1910年，俄国芭蕾舞团在巴黎的公演引发轰动，其色彩瑰丽，外形新颖的芭蕾舞衣，为服装设计开创了新局面。从而欧洲形成了一股东方热潮，设计师纷纷将中国，日本，俄罗斯和印度的设计特色与古希腊，古罗马的古典披垂式风格熔于一炉，创造出了美不胜收的各式服装。 上世纪60年，时装设计大师伊夫圣洛朗(Yves Saint Laurant)发表了“中国风”系列。涉及灵感来自清代官府中的凉帽和马褂。70年代，东西方服饰文化进一步互相撞击，互相融合，高级时装一统天下的时代宣告结束，时装朝着更加民主化，大众化，多样化，国际化的方向发展。日本设计大师高田贤三，三宅一生运用东方传统服装的平面裁剪，设计出不强调合体的曲线的宽松肥大的服装。这种非构筑式设计，与西方的构筑式窄衣结构截然不同，但在当时反体制思潮和石油冲击的大背景下，为世人提供了一种新的选择，抓住了消费的新契机。他们的设计很快广为流传，两位来自东方日本的时装大师从此登上巴黎时装乃至世界时装的舞台。 而就在去年，身着2004/2005秋冬Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche高级成衣的模特伴随着中国电影《花样年华》的背景音乐缓缓走来。各色鲜艳的仿旗袍式立领垫肩缎质套装、用蝴蝶系着盘扣子旗袍套长裤、龙纹云纹中国图腾、用缇花、织锦、刺绣等各种布料及编织技巧，展现极度奢艳亮丽的中国风情。如今闻名于世的美国设计师Tom Ford运用奢侈的中国风为YSL画下重量级的句号。 东西方服饰文化与着不同的优势和魅力，同时也存在着不足与偏颇。例如巴洛克，洛可可时期强调人体体形的紧身胸衣给女性身体的正常机能带来了严重的危害。而宽袍大袖始终贯穿于3000多年的中国服装史，时常给人以呆板，停滞不前，少有变化，创新的感觉。十分巧合的是，19世纪末20世纪初，东西方服装都发生了革命性的变革。在变革中，两者又有着相反的发展倾向。东方服装由松变紧，宽袍大袖吸收了西方三维的立体裁剪，使服装变得贴体，轻便，改良旗袍正是中西合璧最经典的完美体现；而西方则摒弃了造作，扭曲性的人体美，把女性从损害健康的紧身胸衣中解放出来。但相同的都是为了适应新的生活，东西方都改变了繁琐的装饰和累赘的服装结构。 由此可见，中国古代表达寓意的宽袍大袖，西方强调人体之美的服装造型两者并无绝对的孰优孰劣的对比。事实证明，将东方精美华丽的刺绣赋予西方立体合身的服装上展现出了耀眼的光彩。当今，世界各地的服装元素互相融合，互相碰撞是历史发展的必然趋势。作为将会从事于中国服装设计行业的我们，不仅要把握开放的时代契机，紧跟国际时尚潮流，更要努力保护，发扬中国服装的传统特色。让东方服装的寓意和西方服装的形体可以兼得且形态更加丰富多变，让将来的国际时尚舞台绽放出绚丽灿烂的中国光芒！

Abstract: Dress culture is a cultural phenomenon unique to human As it has different aesthetic ideas, different dressing concepts and different dress etiquette in China and west, it forms Chinese and western dress culture of the different connotation and This thesis is divided into four major The first part describes the different features of Chinese and western dress and why people wear The second part describes cultural differences between Chinese and western The third part gives an analysis of Chinese and western dress The last part describes Chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress Based on the analysis, the thesis finally draws a Chinese and western dress culture each has rich connotation and distinct characteristics, which are precious cultural legacy which is left by human ancestors and are the world culture At the same time, we treasure our own civilization of five thousand years instead of belittling It is significant to promote and develop our unique costume We are confident and make contributions to realizing the rejuvenation of our Chinese nation and enriching the clothing culture of the whole Key words: Chinese and western clothing; culture；differences；aesthetic culture and clothing concepts 摘要摘要摘要摘要::::服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同，从而形成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服，第二部分写中西方服饰的差异，第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因，第四部分则写中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的论述，最后得出结论，中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色，她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产 ,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜自己五千年的文明而不是贬低自己的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化，让我们自信起来吧！ 关键词关键词关键词关键词::::中西服饰；文化；差异性；审美文化与着装理念Introduction Costume culture, carried by costume, is a respect of our physical and spiritual life and a mixture of our psychological activities like consciousness, emotion, idea and The rapid development of advanced technology makes multiculturalism stand out and also makes conflicts between China and the West In that case, it becomes more and more important to recognize the similarities and differences of costume culture between China and the W Nowadays, the whole world is, to some extent, dominated by the western costume culture, which has wound its way into the daily life of the whole world, together with technology, life style and values from the W Quite popular in China, it’s nominally called “internationalization” or “globalization” In recent years, the costume industry of China has developed The “international” costume, featured by the western costume culture, has become a pretty important part of our daily However, as our economy takes off, international status rises and living standard improves, a wave of national costume culture resurgence is Moreover, people from the West pay more and more attention to the giant dragon in the East——C Western costume designers constantly introduce Chinese costume cultural elements to their latest Those phenomena arouse a series of thoughts: what distinguishes Chinese costume culture from the western one? Are there any similarities between them? What kind of costume culture will we Chinese hold as the mainstream in the future, the so-called “international” western one, the Chinese one or the fusion of the two? To obtain the answers to these questions, we are supposed to study and contrast carefully the characteristics and developing processes of them, and then draw some To contrast the costume culture between China and the West, it is necessary for us to master a good knowledge of the Chinese and western costume cultural Chapter 1 Chinese and western dress 1 The different features of Chinese and western dress China is known as “Xia” as it’s a land of propriety, and it’s also known as “Hua” with the beauty of its (①《左传》p83) Our national costume is H It originated in the Yanhuang era, formed in the Spring and Autumn Period and officially took form in Han D That’s the reason why it’s called “Hanfu” Since then, in spite of historical evolutions of all ages, their basic characteristics have never Hanfu, on the whole, can be divided into four developing stages: Zhou Han Hanfu, Wei Jin Hanfu, Sui Tang Hanfu and Song Ming H Zhou Han Hanfu was featured by dignity and simplicity, while Wei Jin Hanfu by chic and elegance, Sui Tang Hanfu by dignified, graceful, elegant and poised Hanfu in Song and Ming Dynasties epitomizes the characteristics of the past-simple, dignified, elegant, In Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was forbidden by the government and disappeared from the land of C The main features of Chinese clothing are focusing on the right collar’s overlap, the band deducted hidden, big sleeves, no buttons and using string binding, giving the impression of free and easy These characteristics are obviously different from those of other ethnic Hanfu is divided into uniform and common With strict standards, uniform is dressed on formal occasions while the common clothing, without long sleeves, is very convenient to people’s daily However, the western clothing is different form the Chinese The West belongs to Marine civilization, it emphasizes the subjective and objective separation and that we should rationally treat clothing, advocate releasing personality, stress dress effect and be good at showing beautiful the posture of the Besides, we use various clipping, color collocation means to perfect bodily curve and give a person with visual comfort in the A suit, also known as a business suit, comprises a collection of matching clothing consisting of: a coat﹙commonly known as a jacket﹚,a waistcoat﹙optional﹚﹙USA vest﹚for men, a pair of trousers﹙USA pants﹚, or for women, a shirt or A suit is generally accompanied by torment, a shirt and tie or for women, a 2 Why people wear clothingChinese people are concerned more about its social function of helping to rule a country well than that of keeping warm or It has a lot to do with ruling a country to regulate the dressing way of the common Nevertheless, the westerners pay more attention to its wealth value and Therefore, people put on clothing for functional and social 1 The functional reason The first use of clothing is to resist the cold and cover the Functions of clothing include providing the human body protection against extremes of climate (extreme heat, icy winters, and drenching storms) and protection against insects, noxious, chemicals, and contact with abrasive In sum, clothing protects human beings against anything that might injure the naked, unprotected human 2 The social reason Clothing also delivers social messages to other Social messages sent by clothing, accessories, and decorations can involve social status, occupation, ethnic and religious belief, marital status, cultural degree and sexual availability, For example, only Roman citizens can wear “Toga” in Rome while dragon robe can only be dressed by the emperor in C